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If we consider the arrival of new fibres, with always lower fineness (we take the example of the microfibres), to frequently used new technologies (napping, emerizing) and the ultimate fashion trend for soft, lightweight garments (all elements with a negative effect on pilling resistance) it is recommended to:<\/p>\n
– give the right importance to the size;
\n– check the garments at the moment of reception, often the defect is barely noticeable (flattened hair) and can only be detected after washing;<\/p>\n
Do not confuse pilling with snagging: hair shedding, pulled threads and pills that arise on garments due to washing of continuous and stretch yarn garments.<\/p>\n
snagging<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n elastane spillage<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Knitted and woven fabrics can be manufactured using both yarns and continuous threads. The yarn is a set of discontinuous fibres of limited length of a few mm (such as cotton) to 10 -15 cm (mohair and wool-cut synthetic fibres), bonded togeth-er by torsion, while the thread is a set of filaments of unlimited length of several hundred metres with no interruption.<\/p>\n yarn<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n thread<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Pilling only occurs on fabrics made from yarn, causing a spillage of the short fibres out of the yarn. Snagging, on the other hand, occurs only on continuous yarn or a yarn-thread mix.<\/p>\n Pilling<\/strong> This is illustrated in the diagram below.<\/p>\n The following photos illustrate the photographic dynamics of the pilling:<\/p>\n some fibres spilling out of the fabric<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n fibres are getting tangled<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n the ends of the fibres tend to roll in the shape of a small ball<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n the little ball or pill is now<\/strong><\/span> <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n the pills do not detach from the fabric, and get bigger and bigger<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Quality factors causing pilling that the laundry must take into consideration when receiving the garments for cleaning<\/strong> appearance of a down jacket in polyester warp and cotton weft,<\/strong><\/span> check the appearance of underarm fabric<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n How to measure pilling<\/strong> example of photographic scale to evaluate pilling – rating scale<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Pilling box ICI (ISO 12945-1\/02)<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n test results<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Martindale Abrasion & Pilling Tester (IWS TM 196\/80)<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n test results<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Modified Martindale Abrasion & Pilling Tester (UNI EN ISO 12945-2\/02)<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nThese small pills are nothing more than clusters of fibres arising from the pressure and friction on the surface of the garment. With the mechanical agitation caused by washing and wearing, a part of the fibres migrates to the tissue surface. These fibres tend to stretch and tangle until they form small balls which gradually swell and remain attached to the bottom of the knit by some fibres; if the fibres are fragile, they break and the balls already formed are falling, otherwise they will become larger and larger.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n
\ncompleted and anchored to<\/strong><\/span>
\nthe textile substrate by some<\/strong><\/span>
\nfibres, and the pills are going<\/strong><\/span>
\nto fall due to the breakage of<\/strong><\/span>
\nthe fibres that are holding it<\/strong><\/span>
\ntied to the fabric<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n
\nFirst of all, you must evaluate the fabric type. The most commonly affected fibres are wool, cotton, synthetic and artificial cotton staple fibres, and especially natural and artificial blends, for example wool\/cotton, polyester\/wool, acrylic\/wool; in other words, the \u201cmixture\u201d of two fibres, including one that easily tends to spill out of the yarn, and a very tight one that keeps the hair and pills on the surface, and slowly turning into large pills. The second evaluation is related to the fineness of the fibre, the thinner the fibre, the higher the pilling tendency: such as cashmere, fine wools, microfibres. Then comes the fibre length. The shorter the fibre, the higher the pilling: short fibres are wool, and synthetic and artificial cotton staple fibres. A special focus on finishing (trimming, hair-burning, enzymatic treatment, resin-based treatments and softeners etc) can determine the formation of pilling. Finally, the underarm sweating causes pilling.<\/p>\n
\nextrusion of very short white cotton fibres<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nIndependently of the method used, pilling resistance is expressed with a value rang-ing from 1 – very bad to 5 – very good using an universal reference scale. We can also use a photographic reference scale showing 5 textile samples with vari-ous pilling effects marked with assessment values ranging from 1 (sample with a lot of pills) to 5 (sample without pills). A numerical rating from 1 (very bad) to 5 (very good) is assigned to the examined sample after the laboratory test, that simulates friction stress, numerical rating from 1 (very bad) to 5 (very good) according to the photographic reference scale. There are two scales: one for knitted fabrics and one for woven fabrics. The pictures below are the reference scale that helps us give an assessment after per-forming various tests, as shown in the table.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n